When Did Chicken Become the Most Expensive Thing on the Menu?
- By Charlotte Brown
- February 20, 2026
In a recent New York Times feature, writer Frank Bruni explores an unexpected shift in restaurant pricing: roast chicken — once one of the most modest items on the menu — has become a premium entrée, with half-birds in major cities now priced at $50 or more.
What was long considered a symbol of comfort and accessibility is increasingly positioned as a signature dish.
The $50 Half-Chicken
Across New York City, restaurants such as Borgo, I Cavallini, and Zimmi’s are serving half-chicken dishes priced between $49 and $52. In Los Angeles and London, prices climb even higher, with some whole birds exceeding $100 depending on presentation and accompaniments.
While some versions feature luxury additions like foie gras, rare mushrooms, or caviar, many are straightforward roast chickens — carefully prepared, simply plated, and prominently featured.
Why the Price Has Climbed
The article points to several contributing factors: rising labor costs, increasing rents, higher sourcing standards, and the overall expense of operating restaurants in major urban markets.
At the same time, dining out itself has become more costly. In cities like New York and Los Angeles, a full meal with drinks, tax, and tip can easily surpass $200 per person. Within that broader pricing landscape, a $50 chicken entrée reflects the new economics of hospitality.
From Comfort Food to Culinary Statement
The first regions to be reviewed will be Bordeaux and Burgundy, with initial winery ratings expected in 2026.
These historic regions—already deeply familiar to MICHELIN’s global audience—offer a logical starting point before broader international expansion.