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Julien Duhamel - Creator of Delicacies

HE WAS BORN IN PARIS, BETWEEN TRAYS OF DOUGH AND RHODOID SHEETS. AND FOR GOOD REASON: AS THE SON OF BAKERS AND PASTRY CHEFS, JULIEN DUHAMEL HAS ALWAYS BEEN IMMERSED GOURMET ENVIRONMENT. SPOTLIGHT ON A DELICIOUS DESTINY!

Text by Charline Gatinel - photos ©Jerome Lanier - Creajero

 


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mag-Artisan_J-DUHAMEL_2024-06-19As a child, Julien, like everyone his age, had a dream: to become a fighter pilot. But that was before—
before spending most of his time at his parents' business. "They had a boulangerie-pâtisserie in Paris. As a kid, at the end of the school day, I'd rush into their pastry kitchen to get stuck in.” What happened next? A flurry of training courses confirmed his choice, starting with a B.E.P. (advanced vocational diploma) Pâtisserie, at the end of ninth grade, with those who passed on to him the taste for a well-made baguette, his parents. "I went on to do a year of advanced training in plated desserts at the Plaza Athénée, followed by a C.A.P. Chocolatier as an independent candidate during my first year of B.T.M. at Maison Lepenant in Normandy.” Finally, at the age of 21, he completed a Brevet de Maîtrise at the Chambre des Métiers in Paris. Now it was time for the artisan to earn his keep. To this end, he took up the post of chef at the Huré bakeries in Paris, before joining the Bogner bakery in the capital's 13th arrondissement.

2017 marked the end of his time as an employee: Keen to get away from Paris for a while, Julien Duhamel opens his bakery in Orgeval, Yvelines. And to top it all off, he is accompanied by his wife Marine, a trained cook. He owes his entrepreneurial drive to the crème de la crème of pastry chefs, Stéphane Glacier, with whom his encounter was clearly one of the most significant in his career. "He can take credit for having succeeded in passing on to me his love of the profession, his passion and his firm desire to go beyond your comfort zone.” A valuable piece of advice that he strives to apply in his charming store. "I recently discovered puffed millet balls incorporated into pralines.

My parents had a boulangerie-pâtisserie in Paris. As a kid, I used to rush into their pastry kitchen

mag-Artisan_J-DUHAMEL_2024-06-131At first, I was skeptical, but I'm glad I tried it, because the texture is great, like little marbles with an added bonus of tasting similar to popcorn.” I also like to offer pastries with original combinations such as raspberry/pepper, lemongrass/pear or basil/rhubarb/strawberry. It's enough to leave you speechless when faced with an array of delicacies as varied as they are delicious. In addition to its traditional breads, pastries and viennoiseries, the Duhamel bakery and patisserie also offers ready-made meals and chocolate candies, as well as ice creams and confectionery. But what Julien really loves to make and enjoy is the chocolate éclair, his very own version of Proust's madeleine.

I take care to master the chocolate éclair, the desserT that underpinned my childhood

"My father always said: ‘A good chocolate éclair is the hallmark of a good pastry chef.’ So I take great care to master this dessert that underpinned my childhood.” And while he attaches great importance to the quality of his sweet treats, he also makes it a point of honor to give pride of place to local products, always favoring the purchase of French raw materials, and even better, turning to small-scale producers. "Our apples and pears come from orchards in Orgeval, and we work with a cooperative for milk, cream and butter. We make sure that farmers are earning money, that's what matters.” His consistent approach even led him to name one of his pastries "Orgevalais", as a nod to his adopted home town, or at least the town that gladly hosts his store.

He makes it a point of honor to give pride of place to local products, turning to small-scale producers 


mag-Artisan_J-DUHAMEL_2024-06-20A sweet tooth’s delight: almond- hazelnut crunch, hazelnut dacquoise sponge cake, double-chocolate crémeux, Chantilly and a fine chocolate wafer make up this best-selling pastry. Another best-seller made in "Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Duhamel"? The classic yet effective Paris-Brest! At 1 rue du Maréchal Foch, customers flock to the door, ever more fond of the 100% homemade produce. "Three quarters of our customers come from Yvelines. As for the remainder? These are people who come to us because they've enjoyed our desserts or chocolates at a friend's house.” The pastry chef's secret to drawing the most discerning palates? A clever blend of lightness and indulgence. "Our aim is to offer cakes that are easy to digest

but delicious. The idea is to bring a touch of freshness to our creations. To achieve this, we constantly strive to balance our recipes. For example, if we use sponge cake, the result will be less heavy than with mousse. We also add crémeux and comfit, lightening the desserts.”

Our aim is to offer cakes that are easy to digest but delicious, and to bring a touch of freshness to our creations

The result? Prizes galore! Best tradition in Yvelines. Best croissant in Yvelines. Second galette des rois, again from Yvelines. And finally, seventh place in the Trophée de la Pâtisserie de l'Ile-de-France. The perfect opportunity for this craftsman to raise the profile of his bakery and patisserie.

 

Julien Duhamel's key to success

"I'd say there are three. The first is courage. Young workers coming out of school need to be equipped and motivated! The second? Unquestionably, a passion for the job. And lastly, a taste for hard work! With these three criteria, there's no doubt that you’ll stand out from the crowd!”

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