Gochtial - A Little Known Breton Specialty

A CROSS BETWEEN A BREAD AND A BRIOCHE, GOCHTIAL IS A SPECIALTY OF THE RHUYS PENINSULA IN MORBIHAN. TODAY, ONE BAKERY CONTINUES TO OFFER THE TRADITIONAL VERSION, BUT IT HAS BEEN REVISITED BY MANY ARTISANS IN THE SECTOR.

Text by Mégane Fleury

Regional Delicacies

France Through its Regional Delicacies

The gochtial is little known outside southern Morbihan. This bakery specialty originated on the Rhuys peninsula, in the village of Saint-Armel. Since then, it has made its way onto the shelves of many bakeries in the surrounding area, as well as certain establishments in Vannes and southern Morbihan. “Gochtial is really a cross between bread and brioche," points out Éric Trémélo, a baker based in Arzon on the Rhuys peninsula. “Some even call it brioche bread.” Its  texture is generally quite dense, yet soft. In terms of flavor, it has a buttery taste and is slightly sweet. In fact, its name comes from the Breton word gwestall, meaning cake. Originally, it was prepared for Saint-Vincent's Day, January 22. It's a family recipe: the villagers prepare the gochtial at home and take it to the baker to be baked. At the time, its crumb was tighter and it was richer.

It has a buttery taste and is slightly sweet

A "M adeleine de Proust" for locals and tourists alike

Later, the Le Joubioux family, who had settled in Saint-Armel, changed the destiny of this bread-brioche. Baking gochtials for the locals has become complex, so the baker decides to knead and bake them himself. The family establishment, the Moulin à Café, both a café and bakery, still exists today. Eric Le Joubioux, the fourth generation to run the company, and Yann Saintilan keep to tradition: gochtials are still baked in a wood-fired oven. As for the recipe used, it dates back to 1960. But every year, the traditional version, closer to a cake, is made for Saint-Vincent's Day.

Today, gochtials are still baked in a wood-fired oven

The rest of the year, these golden brioche buns come out of the oven almost every day, with record quantities in summer. “For many customers, the gochtial is their very own Madeleine de Proust," tells Yann Saintilan. It's a product that speaks to all ages, and to locals and holidaymakers alike." During the summer months, the gochtial is at its most successful. At Le Moulin à café, stock is often sold out early in the afternoon. At the Trémélo bakery, at least 100 gochtials are baked every day between July and August. “It's truly a local product," insists Eric Trémelo, "and we get a lot of demand from customers.”

An Easy Recipe

From a technical point of view, the gochtial is fairly easy to make. “It's no more complicated than a brioche," advises Eric Trémélo. “The technique is similar." As for the ingredients, they are very similar. Initially based in Ille-et-Vilaine, then in Quéven near Lorient, the artisan discovered the recipe when he moved to the market town of Arzon in early 2018. At the time, gochtial was one of the establishment's flagship products, as are local specialties such as kouign aman. "We've kept the process close to the one used before, while adding our own personal touch." He recommends ensuring that the dough is well hydrated to obtain a perfect texture, not too dense, and that you leave enough time for it to rise properly. “I like the crumb to be lightly honeycombed and not too tight," says Eric Trémelo. “The gochtial must not be too dry and compact." As this is a Breton product, he chose to use semi-salted butter, rather than unsalted butter, to keep with tradition. For preservation, the artisan sometimes adds a little honey to the recipe. Shelf life is one of this specialty's strong points: it can easily last four days, or even longer if lightly toasted.

As this is a Breton product, Éric Trémélo chose to use semi-salted butter

One Specialty, Many Possibilities

Its other trump card is probably its versatility. "We've already made some with chocolate chips. And we've also tested it with figs to be served with foie gras for the festive season," says Eric Trémélo. “Gochtial pairs well with foie gras, but it can also be used in a wide range of recipes, in snack foods for example.” In fact, as both bread and brioche, gochtial allows you to be creative, switching easily from sweet to savory.