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Clément Higgins - Atypical and Uninhibited

A 100% SELF-TAUGHT CRAFTSMAN, CLÉMENT HIGGINS IS SHAKING UP THE CODES OF TRADITIONAL PATISSERIE WITH HIS APTLY NAMED BRICOLEURS DE DOUCEURS.

Text By Gilbert Pytel - Photos @ilyafoodstories (Featured in the May 2025 issue of Pastry1 Magazine)

 


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When you take a closer look at the list of fine patisseries in Marseille, it's clear that there are few quality establishments.

Of course, some institutions have long delighted the inhabitants of France's second largest city, but for the most part they're now in the past tense. Fortunately, new artisans are arriving on the scene to shake up the world of local sweets. Clément Higgins is one of the most prominent names of this rising generation. And yet, at the outset, nothing indicated that he was destined for pastry making. He actually began his professional career with a general baccalaureate, followed by a master's degree in business law. He went on to take competitive exams at various specialized schools to become a journalist, and at the same time found work in a Marseille pizzeria run by Rodolphe Bodikian, a former Michelin-starred chef. 

C_ ilyafoodstories (1)I had the idea of turning my childhood bedroom into a pastry kitchen

"Par force of circumstance, I found myself making the desserts at this restaurant, and I loved it," says Clément Higgins. As he failed his various competitive examinations, he decided to apply for a C.A.P. as an independent candidate, remaining unsuccessful: I then found a job in a local pastry shop in Marseille, where I stayed for a month, and then a position in a premium burger restaurant. I handled the desserts there for a year, while continuing to learn in a totally self-taught way, using books and online recipes." Following this, Clément left for Australia for six months with his partner Aurélie Pauletto, to work in a bakery on the outskirts of Sydney. He then returned to Marseille, where one of his former employers requested he supply them with a various cakes. "I then came up with the idea of transforming my childhood bedroom into a small 10 m2 catering and pastry-making kitchen, and it proved a great success.” It was then that Michael Torre, a chartered accountant who he had met a few years earlier, came up with the idea of opening a patisserie in partnership. In December 2015, the project became a reality: Clément and Aurélie found lesBricoleurs de Douceurs and set up shop in Marseille's seventh arrondissement.

We almost always receive very good feedback on all the pastries

"Since we didn't want to put our names on the front of the store, I thought the name was kind of funny. What's more, as I've never qualified in pastry-making, you could say that I started out tinkering with cakes.” Right from the outset, the brand has set itself apart with offbeat creations and humorous titles: "I'm not a big fan of pompous cake names, so I brainstormed with my team and came up with wordplay titles like 'sésame aleykoum', 'sans-pêchticide' and 'Framboise'Yeah'. Initially, alongside traditional French pastries, we also designed cakes with original combinations such as a curry and passion fruit tart or a wasabi and raspberry cheesecake. Today, we've split our sweet range into two: classic recipes with visual and taste markers of the cakes we all know, and creative recipes where we let loose a little more. We almost always get very good feedback on all our pastries, even if people choose more of our conventional treats overall.” Customers across Marseille are quickly charmed by the freshness and inventiveness of the various delicacies, which feature highly polished visuals.

"Whenever possible, we source our fresh fruit from local growers, such as the Long family in Roquevaire, who supply the strawberries and raspberries. When we use fruit purées, I turn to the Adamance company, of which I'm one of the ambassadors, which focuses on very precise sourcing of pesticide-free products. Our chocolates come from Valrhona and the cream from the Etrez dairy cooperative in Bresse. Lastly, our pralines are made to order in Comptoir du Praliné kitchen in SaintÉtienne-de-Baïgorry, in the Basque Country. That said, we're constantly on the lookout for new and interesting products.” Completely in tune with the times, Clément Higgings is thinking about setting up a patisserie that's as eco-friendly as possible: "for many years now, whether natural or not, we've been removing all flavorings and food colorings from our menu. Like all good artisans today, we give priority to the seasonal nature of our products. You'll never find strawberry cream cakes here in December, because it's simply not in keeping with our values. Thanks to my partner, we have also banned the use of plastic or paper bags for the past three years. Instead, we offer reusable tote bags which we sell at cost price. It took a while, but our customers got used to bringing their own bags. We all need to play our part.

C_ Ilya KAGAN @ilyafoodstories-3Colorings and flavorings have been absent from our menu for many years

At present, we're thinking of introducing fully recyclable Kraft cardboard boxes and bases. As far as our suppliers are concerned, we try to make them aware of the need not to over-package the products they deliver to us. Overall, I think we could take our anti-waste efforts even further.” Given Marseille's predominantly dry, hot climate, Bricoleurs de Douceurs couldn't pass up the opportunity to offer a year-round range of artisanal ice creams, without flavorings or coloring agents, in the usual flavors (chocolate, vanilla, strawberry, pistachio...) as well as more unusual ones (Mojito, Cookie, Tonka or "Bounty"). Highly interested in entrepreneurship, Clément enjoys baking cakes as much as managing staff and human relations. After opening his first outlet, he was quick to expand, while retaining the specificity and quality of his products. Between 2019 and 2023, three more stores opened in Marseille, before recently opening a new sales area and tearoom in Aubagne. "Following the example of some of my colleagues in other small towns and villages, we saw that this was perfectly possible and achievable. We recently acquired a central production kitchen to give us even greater freedom of choice. We also intend to open even more new boutiques.

The key to success according to Clément Higgins: "I think it's the combined strength of our work over many years, our desire to create something new, and above all our ability to surround ourselves with competent, motivated people. They love Bricoleurs de Douceurs as much as we do, and are proving particularly valuable in our development.

C_ ilyafoodstories  C_ Ilya KAGAN @ilyafoodstories.jpg

 

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