Christelle Brua | A Career Guided by Her Desires

From best apprentice in her département in 1998 to best pastry chef in the world twenty years later, Christelle Brua has had a remarkable career. Having worked at the Pré Catelan and in the kitchens of the Élysée, she opened her first shop in April 2023: Madame Cacao, a chocolate shop.

Text by Mégane Fleury


IN THE SPOTLIGHT: HONORING A NEWSWORTHY CHEF

You began your training in cookery. Why did you then choose pastry?
Christelle Brua: “I started with cookery because my parents were restaurateurs. I did my apprenticeship with Jean-Georges Klein, at l’Arnsbourg, in Baerenthal, Alsace. Like all apprentices, I went through the pastry section before joining the 'hot' kitchen teams. I really enjoyed it and wanted to stay. The chef’s mother, Lilly Klein, was in charge of pastry; I learned from her."

All of a sudden, I was in the spotlight and therefore highly in demand. However, I did not change my habits.

Boutique2-1 In 2003, you left your home region for Paris, where you joined Pré Catelan, two stars at the time. What attracted you to this establishment?
CB: “I greatly admired the work and career of Frédéric Anton. He is also from Lorraine, like me. I was also attracted to Pré Catelan for the location itself: it is located in the Bois de Boulogne, a vast natural area. Joining this house was also a real challenge because the goal was to obtain the third star. I had to show what I was capable of. As an anecdote, I put myself forward a little boldly: I sent a CV and got no reply. So I called and called, maybe fifty times a day, until I got an answer. ”

 Fifteen years later, you were named Best Pastry Chef in the World. What did that change for you? 
 CB: “It was Frédéric Anton who told me. I didn’t believe it. What happens after that is incredible. All of a sudden, I was in the spotlight and therefore highly in demand. My career took a turn. This prize wasn't just about me, but the whole team being rewarded for its work. However, I did not change my habits. I've always been introverted; I don’t like crowds. ” 

At the time, you were the first woman to win this title…
CB: “Yes. At the time, very few women were doing this job. I was the first to obtain the title, and perhaps this gave some people a leg up, so even better! At thePré Catelan, I was the only woman when I arrived; later, there were around eight out of ten in the brigade. It was a great step forward for me, because I was committed to increasing female representation in this brigade. That said, I did all this without being a feminist: I never claimed the fact of being a woman in my career or used this argument in general. ”

One year later, in 2019, you leave the kitchens of Pré Catelan to join the Élysée. What interested you in this position?
CB: “I knew that Guillaume Gomez, head chef of the kitchens at the Élysée Palace, was looking for a pastry chef. I wanted to
work in this house, the most beautiful in France. At that time, I wanted to take on a new challenge. So, when I was offered this  position, I accepted. It was a fascinating experience, because the tasks are varied: from breakfast to state dinners, including travel. And above all, you work for a person who will inevitably leave a mark on history.”

Boutique10-1In 2023, you opened Madame Cacao, your chocolate shop. Why this choice?
CB: “I had always wanted to open something one day, but I didn’t know what. I chose a chocolate shop because it’s a field I didn’t know and I needed a new challenge. Two years ago, I obtained my chocolatier diploma. Today, there are three of us in the business, including my niece. I work with my family, like my parents in their inn, it’s very pleasant to find that again. Above all, I love chocolate as a material, the way it can evolve and the range of possibilities it offers. I spend my time testing things, and now I’m at home, so I’m free to create. ”

What is it that characterizes your creations? 
CB: “I draw a lot of inspiration from childhood tastes, it’s the DNA of my products. I want to bring carefreeness and lightness into my creations. It has to be playful and uninhibited. More generally, the idea is to offer simple things made using noble products. The hazelnuts come from Piedmont, the pistachios from Bronte. The chocolate from Nicolas Berger and Pralus."

I love chocolate as a material, the way it can evolve.

This change of career path must have been surprising for those who follow you, mustn’t it?
CB: “It takes time for people to get used to change. Many people wonder why I changed paths when I was at the peak of my career and very well known. But I’ve always followed my desires; when I started in the trade, I was a cook, then I went into pastry and now I’m a chocolatier! ”

What are your plans with Madame Cacao?
CB: “We are currently developing internationally. It’s energy-consuming but I find it incredible. We are at the very beginning of the adventure."

I have always followed my desires; when I started out, I was a cook, now I am a chocolatier.

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