- By Charlotte Brown
- October 08, 2024
EMBLEMATIC OF PROVENCAL CUISINE, THE CALISSON D’AIX IS A CANDIED MELON AND ALMOND CONFECTION. ITS MANUFACTURERS ARE NOW APPLYING FOR A PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION.
Text by Mégane Fleury – photographs by Sarah B. Creative Studio/FXE/Juliette Treillet (Featured in the October 2024 issue of Pastry1 Magazine)
Regional Delicacies
France Through its Regional Delicacies
Calisson is one of the most famous sweets of Provence. This smile-shaped confection is filled with candied melon and crushed almonds.
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A Royal Confection
Its history is linked to that of René of Anjou. Widowed, he remarried Jeanne de Laval in 1454. “According to legend, the queen was so serious that the king asked his pastry chef to make a dessert that would please her," says Alexis Bertucat, communications director for the Territoire de Provence group, which includes Le Roy René. He made a confection in the shape of a smile, with candied melon, almond and sugar syrup, and a miracle occurred: the queen smiled!" When Queen Jeanne asked him what these delicacies were called, the pastry chef replied "câlins", or calin soun in Provençal. This is how the famous confectionery was born. Other specialists have found the word calisone in Latin texts from the 12th century. This refers to an Italian cake made with almonds and honey, which is then wrapped in unleavened bread. In the 16th century, this confectionery crossed the border and spread to the south of France. A century later, after a plague epidemic, a bishop is thought to have offered calissons during a mass, intended to thank the patron saint of Aix-en- Provence, the vierge de la Seds. This would mark the beginning of the confectionery's popularity.
It is one of the thirteen traditional Provençal Christmas desserts
Whatever its exact origin, calisson has a strong place in Provencal tradition. It is one of the thirteen Christmas desserts traditionally served in the region during the festive season. But it also reflects the gastronomic specialties of Provence: first and foremost the melon de Provence, but also the candied fruits of Apt. This town, located some fifty kilometers north of Aix-en-Provence, has been renowned for centuries for its candied fruit production. Lastly, Provence has been producing almonds since the 16th century.
The Complex Issue of Almonds
Today, the history of this confectionery continues . Around ten calisson makers are brought together in the Aix Calisson Manufacturers’ Union. "At the moment, we're defending a Protected Geographical Indication for calisson, with specific specifications and a production area that includes Aix-en-Provence and neighboring communes," explains Alexis Bertucat. These criteria include the origin of the almonds. “We want to exclude almonds from California, which account for 80% of the world's production," he explains, "because it's an agro-industrial system that uses a lot of pesticides and water, which is a disaster from an ecological point of view." Only Mediterranean almonds will therefore be permitted. In France, although Provence is one of the historic production regions, figures have plummeted. According to him, 300 tons were produced in 2014, and Le Roy René now needs 200 to 220 tons per year. Since 2015, the company has been committed to an almond recovery plan: 1,200 tons could be harvested by 2022 as a result. "This allows us to produce calissons with a minimum of 30% French almonds, the rest coming mainly from Spain. For Christmas 2023, we'll have a range with 100% French almonds!
The calisson: a recipe that’s easy to master?
From a technical point of view, this confectionery can be made by anyone." But it takes skill to get the icing right," warns Alexis Bertucat. For us, these skills are passed between the different people working in the company, and this is one of the foundations of the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant label." They have dedicated machines for cutting the product. Once packaged, the calisson can be eaten within a few months. "It's even recommended to let it rest for a while, as the wafer underneath will gradually soak in and become less and less noticeable, which makes the product even better.
Calissons and Variations
Dealing with this historic product, it is reasonable to consider whether variations are tolerated. For Alexis Bertucat, it's important to let your creativity flow. " It's a product that can be reinvented, you just have to keep the base." Nevertheless, only "traditional" calissons can be called calissons d'Aix.
It takes skill to get the icing right
At Le Roy René, variations on the classic recipe are called calissons arlequins, in reference to the festival held for decades in the town of Aix-en-Provence. In these boxes, you'll find calissons with flowers, verbena, lemon or chocolate. For the traditional calisson d'Aix, the shape remains the same, but the size and therefore the weight can vary, from 2.5 to 5 cm and by 5 grams. "It's important to keep to the dimensions, and not try to make large calissons. Otherwise they become dry.”
This confectionery truly forms part of our heritage, and is always in high demand
In the manufacturer's workshops, the calisson also becomes a creamy spread. As well as its ingenuity, this helps limit waste as it is made with downgraded calissons. “They truly form part of our heritage," he insists. Confectionery is always in high demand with local customers and tourists alike.”
Le Roy René
Maison Le Roy René is one of the historic producers of calissons from Aix-en- Provence. The company was founded by Ernest Guillet in 1920, and soon made a name for itself through their calisson and nougat. More than a century later, Le Roy René, part of the Territoire de Provence group, still makes its confectionery in Aix- en-Provence, and today has twelve stores, mainly in the south of France. The range has expanded to include sponge cakes, infusions, syrups and other spreads. At the same time, the company has made a number of environmental commitments to the Act for Planet association, notably with regard to sourcing raw materials. Since the mid-2010s, the company has been committed to the revival of Provence almonds and pistachios. For its dark and white nougats, Le Roy René uses P.G.I. Provence lavender honey and P.G.I. Provence all-flflower honey. Over the years, Le Roy René has changed, but the calisson remains emblematic of the brand, accounting for 50% of the company's business.
Sources: Alexis Bertucat; https://www.caminteresse.fr/culture/dou-vient-le-calisson-daix-11121729/; https://www.futura-sciences.com/planete/ questions-answers/culture-origine-calissons-aix-provence-5309/