IN ORTHODOX COUNTRIES, THE KULICH IS EMBLEMATIC OF EASTER CELEBRATIONS. THIS CYLINDRICAL BRIOCHE IS FILLED WITH DRIED AND CANDIED FRUIT, THEN COVERED WITH A WHITE GLAZE AND VARIOUS DECORATIONS.
Text by Mégane Fleury
Easter is one of the most important feasts of the year in the Orthodox religion. This period is associated with many traditions, especially culinary ones, such as the preparation of kulich. This cylindrical, buttery brioche is filled with candied fruit and covered with a glaze. It can be found in countries where the Orthodox religion is present, such as Armenia, Romania, Serbia and Ukraine.
A brioche using starter, similar to the Italian panettone
“It's a cross between a brioche and a panettone," adds Sylvain Mathy, a pastry chef based in Le Cannet in the Alpes-Maritimes. “You could say it's a kind of iced panettone." With his Russian-born wife Lioudmila, they opened Mimi Faktory in 2019. The two pastry chefs offer French and Russian specialties, including kulich. In their pastry kitchen, traditional brioche is prepared using starter. “This requires long fermentation," explains Sylvain Mathy. Then, you need to refresh the starter and leave it to rise for a while sufficient, prepare the glaze, etc." According to him, it takes at least three working days to make it.
Generally speaking, kulich, like its Italian cousin, requires experience and technique to master the process. “We recovered a recipe that had been passed down several times over," he tells. “The first year it wasn't quite up to our expectations, but then we worked to improve the process year after year. It was when we decided to work the kulich like a panettone that we got the best results." He also points out that panettone molds can be used to make it, in the absence of suitable molds. These are generally available in specialist stores or have to be imported.
To flavor the kulich, the couple chose to add a few dried fruits, lemon, orange and a dash of cognac. Some recipes also suggest adding spices such as saffron, nutmeg or cardamom. “Back then, we only put raisins in kulich," advises Lioudmila Mathy. “Gradually, it was enriched with nuts, such as almonds, and then with candied fruit.”
Traditionally, the kulich is glazed with tempered fondant, then decorated. “Nowadays, more and more pastry chefs are making a kind of marshmallow that's less sweet and less sticky," says the pastry chef, French Dessert Champion 2002. However, as the brioche is still a little damp, this may melt a little. “We make both types of glaze.” The brioche is then decorated with little nests and chocolate eggs, or colored vermicelli. In countries with an Orthodox culture, two letters are usually placed on the icing: X and B, the acronym for an expression meaning Christ is Risen. According to some theories, the top of the kulich, with its white icing, could represent the snow-covered dome of an Orthodox church or a priest's
hat.
This brioche has many symbols attached to it. “According to tradition, Easter represents the return of the sun, spring and wheat," explains Lioudmila Mathy. “A few centuries ago, it was distributed to people to wish them a happy new year, with good harvests. It was synonymous with luck and success."
Its preparation is just as ritualized: the kulich must be made on the Thursday before Easter Sunday. "The whole family comes together to cook it, in a joyful, good- humored atmosphere.” Once the kulich has been made, it is brought to mass on Saturday evening, the eve of Easter. “It starts at 10pm and finishes around 2 or 3am," she explains. “The kulich is blessed by the priest during the ceremony." Kulich is one of the food products associated with the end of Lent. In the Orthodox religion, this fasting period lasts 40 days, during which no animal products are consumed. "Kulich, rich in butter and eggs, is the first food to break the fast. It is placed in the middle of the table and then shared among all the guests, family and friends."
The many culinary traditions of Orthodox Easter This meal also includes two other specialties that go hand in hand with kulich: decorated eggs and pashka. The former are traditionally hand-decorated with natural colorants, such as spices, or with plants, then served with the Easter Sunday meal. Pashka, a cottage cheese cake also garnished with candied fruit, is often served at the end of the meal with leftover kulich. Though traditionally, it could be eaten right up to Pentecost, Sylvain Mathy is more cautious. "You can keep it for up to five or even seven days, but it's not as good over time." However, there's no question of preparing it at other times of the year: for Mila and Sylvain Mathy, kulich is only available at Easter.
Sources:
https://russieautrement.com/nouvelles/recettes-de-cuisine/paques-russe-traditions-et- customs/;
https://alexandrederussie.com/culture/traditions/paques-orthodoxe-russie/;
https:// www.themoscowtimes.com/2015/04/10/kulich-russias-classic-easter-cake-a45587; Sylvain and Lioudmila Mathy