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Heritage Radio Network: What's On This Week May 26 2021

Posted by Bruce Banner on May 26, 2021 11:00:00 AM

HRN_512_faviconParis Gourmet is proud to support the Heritage Radio Network.

Heritage Radio Network is the ultimate destination for savvy, entertaining, conversations about what’s going on in the culinary world. We’re an independent, member-supported, 501(c)(3) nonprofit radio station, broadcasting from two recycled shipping containers behind Roberta’s Pizza, a restaurant at the forefront of Brooklyn’s culinary renaissance. Our 40+ hosts invite the most influential, visionary people – from brewers and bartenders to pastry chefs, policy makers and more – to discuss today’s most vital issues. We cover food policy and agriculture, the restaurant scene, and everything to do with food and drink, as well as introduce you to today’s up-and-coming chefs and share compelling human interest stories. We believe that a small group of dedicated people can change the world one bite (or sound bite) at a time. Since 2009, we’ve earned a reputation as the best source for thought-provoking talk about food. You can listen to any of our episodes live – or as podcasts on demand – wherever you are, whenever you want, and always for free. Heritage Radio Network’s goal is to be more than a radio station. We’re growing a community of eaters and thinkers making the world a more delicious place to live. We host events, networking sessions, and insightful panel discussions. Plus, we train high school and higher education students how to get involved and produce their own stories about food through our scholarship and internship programs.

HOW TO LISTEN

Stream us live and check our our archived programming here on our website

Download any of our podcasts on Apple Podcasts or Stitcher.

And follow us on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram too: that’s where we keep our listeners up to date on all our newest, best content.

Exchange of culinary knowledge and ingredients is a theme connecting our coverage this week - from Sichuan pepper products, to the African American roots of barbecue, to the banana's global supply chain. 

Speaking Broadly celebrated its 150th episode this week with a conversation about food defying borders with Yasmin Khan, a long-time human rights activist and author of Ripe Figs.

Cooking in Mexican from A to Z also explores crossing culinary borders in an interview with historian Víctor Macías-González – focused on exchange between Juarez, Mexico and El Paso, Texas.

Meant to be Eaten covers Japanese immigrants' culinary experiences in Brazil in collaboration with Gastronomica

Find more stories about the interchange of food and culture today and throughout history, below. 

Black Smoke with Adrian Miller


Barbecue has long been recognized as the heart of southern cooking, but African American culture has been largely ignored as the origin of this iconic cuisine. Adrian Miller brings this and much more to light in his new boo
k. Listen here.

 

 

     

 

50 Hertz Sichuan Pepper

Born and raised in Chongqing, China, Yao Zhao started his company, 50Hertz Sichuan Pepper, based on the belief that Sichuan pepper and its tingly numbing sensation would strike a chord with foodies everywhere. Listen here.

 

 

 

Viaje Banana

Buenlimón Radio follows the banana along the global supply chain, from plantations in Central America to U.S. supermarkets, examining its intersection with  colonialism, monoculture, and consumption.  Listen here (in Spanish).

Topics: Heritage Radio Network, Podcasts

En La Cocina con Cristina: Olive Oil

Posted by Bruce Banner on May 21, 2021 11:30:00 AM

We asked Spanish food specialist Cristina Garcia to explain the THREE key facts about Spanish olive oils and explain why choosing Spain's biggest export product is so important.  In addition to this great video, Cristina provided the perfect list.

En La Cocina con Cristina Olive Oil

Why Spanish Olive Oil?  THE BIG THREE

  1. Ancient Trees- Spanish farmers harvest olives from trees that are 300 to 600 years old.  There is no fast way to cultivate superior olives.
  2. Culinary Tradition- olive oil is the primary fat in Spain's renowned cuisine.  They use it EVERY day for EVERY thing.
  3. Production Experience- as the world's largest producer, providing 50% of the world's olives, no nation has more knowledge and experience with this fruit and its oil.

What you should know about Spanish Extra Virgin Olive Oil...

  • It's only made from the BEST 20% of the olive crop
  • Cold PRESSED only
  • The best olive variety for Extra Virgin Olive Oil is the PICUAL
  • Flavor and aromatic notes 
    • Marcona Almonds
    • Fruity apples and pears
    • A dash of fresh ground black pepper
    • Fresh grassy aroma
  • Used for finishing plates, as a condiment, cold dressings and sauces, and to saute
  • Rich gold and brass color

What you should know about Spanish Pure Olive Oil...

  • Made from the bulk of the olive crop
  • Refined to remove flavor impurities
  • Lighter in color (yellow to gold)
  • Lighter in flavor; harmonizes well in any application
  • Used for any food applications

To see all of our Tierra de Espana olive oils, click here.

 

Topics: olive oil, Tierra de Espana

The Definitive Xanthan Gum Pop Hits Playlist

Posted by Bruce Banner on May 20, 2021 10:47:47 AM

Xanthan gum is a super useful cold process thickener and stabilizer that is very easy to use.. Chef Frederic Larre created this great video to explain how it works and one easy way to make it work!

Cuisine Tech Studio Xanthan Gum

The Playlist

Click the list to hear the song and see the video.  Don't miss "Safety Dance" if you haven't seen this.  It's like a bizarre missing episode of Game of Thrones....

TheExcitingWilsonPickett

Ninety Nine and a Half Won't Do

Wilson Pickett 1966- peaked at #13

As Wicked Mister Pickett would tell you, we've got to have 100- percent...  But if you want to thicken a liquid, just one percent of xanthan gum will increase the viscosity (thicken the liquid) nicely.

Glenn_Frey_The_Heat_is_On_single_cover

The Heat Is On

Glenn Frey 1984 peaked at #2- this song from the Beverly Hills Cop soundtrack is NOT required when working with xanthan gum.  In fact, there is not heat required!

Show_Me_the_Way_by_Peter_Frampton_UK_vinyl_side-A

Show Me The WHEY

Peter Frampton 1976 peaked at #6- one of the many hit tracks from the Godzilla of double live albums Frampton Comes Alive.  In this case, we want Frampton to show us the WHEY, the byproduct of cheese production that serves as the largest source for xanthan gum.

BabyGotBack

Baby Got Back 

Sir Mix-a-Lot- 1992- landed at #2 FOR THE YEAR!  And like The Sir, when you use xanthan gum, be sure to mix it... A Lot! And strongly!  Food scientists would explain this phenomenon as "shear thinning" which means that as you stir, mix, or shake the mass more, its viscosity decreases, and it flows more easily.  So use a strong blender to incorporate it well, and remix when you are ready to serve.

440px-The_archies_sugar_sugar_1969_US_vinyl

Sugar, Sugar

The Archies- 1969- hit #1 for four weeks.  Xanthan gum is a polysacharride, a very long string of simple sugar molecules bound in a long chain.  That's how it thickens- long chains that form nets that hold things together.

The_Safety_Dance_single

Safety Dance

Men Without Hats- 1982- #1 on the dance chart.  Like the S-A-F-E-T-Y Dance, xanthan gum is totally safe and healthy to use.  It's versatile, cold process, low dosage, easy to use, and thickens liquids and fluids to just the right texture.

UPDATE: Ultra Tex: Not Your Grandmother’s Tapioca

Posted by Bruce Banner on May 18, 2021 11:30:00 AM

Tapioca typically brings to mind an old-fashioned dessert of sweet pearlescent pudding studded with starchy spheroids. But you probably eat tapioca just about every day without realizing it. 

 

Extracted from the root of the cassava plant, tapioca is cultivated in tropical areas worldwide, with a high concentration in Southeast Asia and South America.  It can be precooked or pregelatinized to make instant or cold-water-swelling starches and modified in accordance with FDA regulations, and is not known to be an allergen, making it a favored choice as a texturizing or stabilizing agent in specific food markets (especially gluten-free).

cassava root

 

Because it possesses high viscosity and clarity, a very bland, clean flavor profile, a high freeze/thaw rate and good mouth melt-away characteristics, tapioca exhibits the properties that are most desirable for a modified food starch. Therefore, tapioca starch can be found in many industrial food products, including frozen french fries, canned soups, processed cheeses, bakery fillings, dairy products, sauces and gravies. 

 

Although tapioca has been utilized for centuries in traditional cuisines, and prominently in industrialized food manufacturing, its qualities are also a boon to the modern creative chef.  Ultra-Tex 3 and Ultra-Tex 8 are great examples of tapioca-derived products that can be used in all sorts of fun gastronomic endeavors. 

 

Ultra-Tex 3 provides an exceptionally smooth, glossy texture for a wide range of instant food applications, while also imparting a rich creamy mouthfeel.  It’s excellent for producing ideal textural stability, even in cold temperatures or under refrigerated storage, and compared to conventional pregelitinized tapioca starches Ultra-Tex 3 boasts improved tolerance in heated and acidic conditions.  As soon as it comes into contact with hot or cold water, Ultra-Tex 3 develops viscosity and texture.  To aid its dispersion in the liquid, it’s a good idea to blend Ultra-Tex 3 with other dry ingredients (particularly sugar) or disperse it in oil before adding it to water or water-based ingredients such as fruit puree. 

 

cassava plant

 

Ultra-Tex 8 is ideal for use in sauces, pastry fillings, instant puddings, Bavarian creams, and cheese sauces, as it imparts a smooth, glossy texture and superior rich, creamy quality to these preparations.  Perfect for frozen or baked goods and useful in myriad neutral formulations where a smooth, short texture and clean flavor profile are desired, Ultra-Tex 8 as your go-to starch for such creations.

Topics: Cuisine-Tech, Ultra Tex

Pecans Embody Southern Charm

Posted by Bruce Banner on May 17, 2021 11:59:45 AM

Pecans rank second only to peanuts in the United States in terms of popularity.  As for production, the United States produces 80-95% of the world harvest of pecans, depending on the year.  Mexico has increased production consistently in the last decade and harvests substantial amounts as well.  Pecans are the only indigenous American nut.

CaryaillinoensisCandy_w200

This pecan cluster is ready to harvest.

Pecan Producers- the Top Four U.S. States

  1. GEORGIA

  2. NEW MEXICO

  3. TEXAS

  4. ARIZONA

Pecan_orchard

Why are pecans so popular?  Pecans contain an unusually high level of nutrients, and those nutrients provide a lot of flavor, and a silky texture that people enjoy.  Pecans are a member of the hickory family.  The popularity of hickory nuts in China led to the introduction of American pecans there in the 1990s, which allowed American farmers to increase production to much higher levels.  

There are many varieties of pecan trees and nuts, but a particular variety of tree can produce any variety of nut.  That is why grafting is necessary to predictably grow trees that will produce the desired variety of nut.

How do pecans grow?  Watch this video and learn.

 

We asked corporate chef Eric Bertoia to develop a new recipe featuring America's native nut species.  Eric embraced the geographic region that dominates world pecan production, and the Southern Charm entremet was born.

Southern Charm Entremet cropped

Click here to see videos and download the recipe! 

 

Topics: pecans

Wedding Floodgates Open!

Posted by Bruce Banner on May 14, 2021 11:00:00 AM

As the CDC revises guidance concerning pandemic precautions, caterers and event companies expect a huge surge in business as happy couples who waited for this moment start to take their vows.

Kitchen teams will be more pressured than ever by challenges of volume and quality expectations while confronting a historic labor shortage.

We can help! 

 Download our Event Catering: Wedding Edition 2021 brochure to help you find all of the products that you need, including labor savers and semi-prepared goods to save time.  We have summarized the most important items that happy caterers order all the time to help handle their demanding clientele.

Event Catering pg 1-1

 

Americas Selection for the Pannetone World Cup Decided on Staten Island

Posted by Bruce Banner on May 13, 2021 2:48:48 PM

Distinguished judges slice up the finest leavened loaves on two continents.

The Pannetone World Cup (Coppa Del Mondo Del Pannetone) held it's Americas Selection event at Bruno Bakery on Staten Island yesterday.  Entries were solicited from Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, and the United States.  A distinguished panel of judges were appointed to sample the entries, with scoring and guidelines provided by the organizing committee of the Società Mastri Panettieri Pasticcieri Confettieri del Canton Ticino (SMPPC).  

See lots of photos on Instagram and  Facebook

IMG_2083

Joseph Settepani was selected to represent the Americas at the international final to be contested in Lugano, Switzerland on November 5-7, 2021.

We salute the finalists and judges who labored diligently to rise above the challenges of this time to compete in this great international event.

 

The judges

  • Ciril Hitz- chef instructor- Johnson and Wales University
  • Charlie Tola- chef/owner- Lulu's Bakery NYC
  • Nick Stork- president- New York State Bakers Association
  • Frank Vollkommer- Certified Master Pastry Chef
  • Peter Yuen- International Baking and Pastry Consultant
  • Mitch Stamm- Executive director- Bread Bakers Guild of America
  • Calogero Romano- chef technician- Paris Gourmet

The finalists

  • Antony Daniele and Eric Goeury- Passion Pannetone
  • Joseph Settepani- Bruno Bakery
  • Jaime Martinez- Cossettas
  • Gart Rulli- Emporio Rulli
  • Jessica Nascimiento Batista- Padeira Jessica
  • Fernando Oliviera- Padeiroartesao
  • Rogerio Shiumura- Bakery Levain Escola de Paneficicacao e Confeitaria
  • Alexandre Marins Da Costa- Ofner
  • Ermenegildo Cimmino- Patisserie Bel Air
  • Ivano Bassi- Bouducco

image00001image00025image00018

 

Five Key Factors That Create Perfect Crema on Espresso Shots

Posted by Bruce Banner on May 12, 2021 11:30:00 AM
  • Type of Coffee Beans
  • The Roast
  • Freshness of the Beans
  • Grind and Tamping
  • Water Temperature and Pressure

When we  talk about crema, our first thought is espresso.  There is an adage: “We first eat with our eyes”. The first thing you see in espresso is the crema. To the eyes, the strong presence of crema in an espresso shot indicates a quality, well-ground coffee, and a skilled barista.  We asked Dorian Vincent to answer our questions about crema.

So what is the crema exactly?

Crema is a flavorful, aromatic, reddish-brown froth that rests on top of a shot of espresso. Crema helps give espresso a fuller flavor and longer aftertaste than drip coffee.  It is formed during espresso extraction.   

 

Cafe Conversation- Crema on Top

During roasting, coffee beans undergo many different chemical reactions. Complex carbohydrates are broken down into smaller molecules, beans begin to brown, and a lot of water vapor and carbon dioxide are created.

When the water from the espresso machine is under pressure, it dissolves the carbon dioxide gas that was created in the coffee beans during roasting.   When the brewed liquid gets back to normal atmospheric pressure on its way to the cup, the liquid can no longer hold on to all of the gas so it comes out of solution as innumerable tiny bubbles. These bubbles become trapped in the coffee liquid and appear as a stable foam.

What are the elements influencing the crema?

Type of Beans

  • Robusta beans will generate more crema, provide more caffeine, and add bitterness.
  • Arabica  create less crema, lighter crema than robusta, more sweetness, and have a wider flavor profile.

 

Roasting

  • Dark roast:(more than 20min roasting) little crema 
  • Medium roast:(20min roasting)  lots of crema
  • Light roast:(less than 20min) little crema 

 

Fresh roast vs older beans

  • Freshly roasted beans will form more crema on the espresso, as they are still releasing gas.
  • Older beans are either oxidized or they no longer contain any carbon dioxide.

 

Grind and Tamping

  • Too fine- poor extraction (water cannot properly penetrate); weak crema results. 
  • Too coarse- poor extraction (water flows through quickly); no crema is formed.
  • Proper grind- the right combination of pressure and penetration creates the optimal extraction of fats and carbon dioxide.
  • Proper tamping- pressure equaling 30#/square inch provides the correct density

 

Water

  • Water pressure: 8-9 bars
  • Water temperature:  Between 195-205ºF.

 

See Malongo Coffee products

 

The three main traits you can observe from your crema are the color, the thickness, and stability.

 Colors will vary as a result of lighter or darker coffee roasts.  Light colored crema indicates under-extraction. The issue could come from grinding, tamping, and brewing and simply means that not enough flavor comes out of the coffee grounds.

 

Darker colored crema is often a product of over-extraction, when too much fat was extracted from the coffee grounds. It could be an issue of too fine of a grind, too much pressure while tamping, or a shot that was pulled too long.   The espresso machine could be overheated.

Thickness

Freshly roasted coffee beans will generally produce a more pronounced crema. This is because beans that were recently roasted are still giving off some of the oils and gasses that begin to release after the roasting processThe more oils inside the beans, the more crema will be produced during the extraction.  The fullness of crema varies depending on how the roasted beans were processed: dry processed is most common and leaves beans with more of their natural oils. These oils result in a better, fuller crema.  The ideal crema is not too thick or too thin: most baristas aim to have a crema that takes up about 1/10 of the espresso.

Stability

Crema will last for about two minutes before it disappears into the rest of the espresso. A crema that lasts for under a minute may indicate a problem. 

Malongo espresso pods contain ground 100% Arabica coffee.  All of our pods are medium roast, air cooled and are completely airtight.   When you open a pod, it is freshly ground coffee.  Our pods are designed to be extracted with 8 Bar of pressure at a temperature between 195-202 degree F.  Our proprietary pod espresso machines extract a shot in about 23 seconds.  All of our 100% natural espressos  have a generous crema, defining the finesse and the freshness of our coffee. 

 

Dorian Vincent is a coffee and beverage expert who sells Malongo Coffee in the US.

 

Topics: coffee, Malongo, espresso

UPDATE: Kappa Carrageenan: Seaweed Goes Haute Cuisine

Posted by Bruce Banner on May 11, 2021 8:39:03 AM

When you think about agriculture, you probably envision a farm with rows of wheat and vegetables growing in the soil. But there is also an entire business comprised of underwater agriculture, and that’s where the modern food industry cultivates carrageenan.  A totally natural extract from a particular species of red seaweed, kappa carrageenan is sourced mainly from Kappaphycus alvarezii. VIDEOS AND RECIPES AHEAD....

carrageenan-post-pic

This type of carrageenan (there are three main commercial classes) forms the most rigid, strongest gels of the carageenan family (especially in the presence of potassium) and is widely used for its gelling, thickening, and stabilizing properties.  Since carrageenans can strongly bind to proteins, its main application in the food industry is in dairy and meat products.  Kappa carrageenan can also be used as a vegetarian and vegan alternative to gelatin in some applications. 

 

Seaweed varieties, farming methods,  and facilities in the Philippines.

If you’ve ever had the pleasure of converging with a strand of seaweed during a swim in the ocean, you’ve probably noticed it’s typically coated with a viscous, jellylike film.  This unique feature of seaweed was also noted by our forebearers, and the gelatinous extracts from seaweed have been utilized as a food additive for hundreds of years.  In some parts of Scotland and Ireland a traditional dessert known as “carrageenan moss” is still made by boiling specific seaweeds in milk, straining it and adding sugar and flavorings like cinnamon, brandy, whisky and vanilla.  The end result is reminiscent of panna cotta.

  Watch our demonstration video for more information on how to use kappa carrageenan.

Nowadays chefs are using the unique properties of kappa carrageenan to their advantage in modern cuisine: modernist mango custard, maple-suspended pancetta, and craft beer gels are all possible thanks to kappa carageenan.  To use kappa carrageenan in your own creations, simply disperse in water or milk (dispersion into cool liquids is best), then shear (rapid, vigorous mixing, as an immersion blender or Vitamix creates)  and heat until completely dissolved. Kappa carrageenan is soluble in hot water at temperatures above 140º F. 

 Get This Cuisine-Tech Recipe

It is also soluble in colder temperatures when mixed with sodium salt, and since kappa carrageenan binds well with dairy proteins you can also use milk bases the same way with great results.  If you’re adding sugar, do so after it is fully hydrated as it doesn’t dissolve well in the presence of sugar.  The amount of kappa carrageenan you should use depends on the type of liquid and the firmness of the gel you want to create.  Typical usage levels for kappa carrageenan are between 0.75% to 1% in water, and .35% to .5% in milk.  Most similar to agar agar in behavior, kappa carrageenan creates a thermo-reversible gel type that is not freezer stable.  To “supercharge” kappa carrageenan, it can be used in conjunction with locust bean gum. When combining with locust bean gum, you can reduce the amount of kappa carrageenan to about one-third of the concentration usually required, and the resulting gel will be more resilient.

1307140351676

 

 

Topics: Cuisine-Tech

We Are Paris Gourmet

Posted by Bruce Banner on May 10, 2021 9:45:18 AM

 

PG winners

Established in 1983, Paris Gourmet is the New York tristate area’s leading specialty food service importer and distributor. We source the finest products from around the world and make them available across the country through a network of independent distributors. 

PG group pic

Our staff of chef technicians conduct extensive research and development of products in pursuit of quality and innovation. They also provide multiple opportunities for continuing education, training, and support within the industry.

Paris Gourmet is located in New Jersey’s Meadowlands, 8 miles from New York’s Times Square.

 

Topics: U.S. Pastry Competition, Cuisine-Tech, New York City, Ravifruit, Coupe du Monde, Hero Jams, Oils, Cacao Noel, MODA tart shells, Beurremont, Pastry Trends, Amifruit, gelatech, Dechoix, chef, youtube, Pilar, chocolate, Sous Vide, bread, New Jersey, celebration, eric bertoia, nutley farms, pastry techniques, Beurremont butter, Noel Chocolate Bon Bons, Paris Gourmet

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